The largest island in the Balearics, a very popular holiday destination, some breathtaking beaches and historical buildings to admire – Mallorca is one of the top places in my summer to-repeat list!
It is like an overlooked sibling of Ibiza. Skipped by the party crowd which gives it a more calm and relaxed vibe. Having said that, there is no direct comparison. All islands on the Spanish coast have something unique to offer, ranging from hiking trails, to cycling routes, to world-famous DJ-concerts, and of course water adventures. So its best to find out which one is your favourite!
How to explore Mallorca?
In most blogs I read, I saw the people choose to rent a car and drive through the peripheral of the island (the interior is not developed because tourists only go for beaches). Though it sounds like a wonderful way to explore, my expectation from this trip was to take it easy and relax. So I skipped driving and instead selected a beautiful cove on eastern side to set as base.
A guide to the island
The map above is a nice guide. If doing a road trip, you could take a circle and cover different scenic spots and try your luck at discovering a few hidden beaches! Or another way is what I did and base yourself at one or two places, exploring the areas nearby at your pace! Either option is convenient with nice boutique resorts or budget options throughout the island.
Here is a short description from left to right-
Palma – The capital (closest to airport). You will find a lot of culture representation, nice churches, markets, nightlife, bike routes, and a long stretch of beach.
Valldemossa – A small romantic village surrounded by forested hills and gorgeous countryside. Either spend a day here mesmerising the architecture, or set yourself in a charming hotel and go hiking nearby.
Soller – A coastal town that is away from many tourists. Set in a lush valley of orange groves, surrounded by Serra de Tramuntana (Tramuntana mountains) and vast sea with options of scuba diving, paddle boarding etc.
Port Pollensa – This northern most port has a lot of family friendly resorts, a nice stretch of restaurants, calmer seas, and all kinds of water sports and sailing options. This is a bit crowded in peak season, but you can find everything you are looking for!
Alcúdia – Located slightly inside, the one time capital of Mallorca is a historical walled town. It is different from neighbouring ports with its restored stone house, churches, and regular fairs and festivals.
Cala d’Or – The eastern coast used to be a fishing village which is now turned into a holiday spot with many resorts. There are little coves guarded by small cliffs where you can soak in lots of sunshine.
Es Trenc – It is one of the most beautiful beaches that is undisturbed and not close to any resorts. Drive down there for some private sunbathing time!
My itinerary
I spent a longish weekend in Mallorca. It was in the beginning of September, as the weather is still warm enough to dive in at the same time giving a respite from huge flocks of tourists.
I stayed Palma the first night to explore the capital and fancy its nightlife (also because I landed late and it seemed like an obvious choice). The major party scene is limited to the capital and south west coast of Palma Nova, so I was able to divide my time there. For remaining 3 days I went to Cala Ferrera (part of Cala d’Or) and did not budge much.
Palma
It is a relatively compact city, and if you stay in the centre you can roam around just on foot. Other options are public transport (their bus network being good), or bike rentals for more flexibility. I stayed at a simple and cute hostel – Hostel Pura Vida which was located on the top floor with access to terrace and excellent location – close to plaza mayor (their main square), and other markets, restaurants and also a beach!
I spent a day in Palma walking around its shadowed streets, exploring different neighbourhoods, shopping and soaking at the Platja de Can Pere Antoni beach which is a long stretch of golden beauty with parasols, lounges and cafes. One can expect this to be commercially active as it is caters to the city crowd who come here to relax, but it did not feel super crowded in beginning of Septemeber.
Palma Cathedral is another major tourist attraction with Catalan Gothic style architecture built over four centuries, and later Antoni Gaudi appending a small touch above the altar. There is a long queue usually with skip-the-lines tickets also available.
During the day, this is what Spain is about. Easing it up, taking a dip in ocean or maybe biking along the countryside. The time catches up and speed through the night, when clubs and restaurants open their doors. Streets slowly get packed with music, cocktails, dance, and tapas! I went to La Llotja area first hoping around its maze-like-streets to find really colourful and lively bars, and ended up at the lovely Passeo Maritimo for late night partying.
On the way back I walked along the Marina in a nice silent hour with sound of waves hitting on the rocks. After a day well spent in the city, I just looked forward to spending time even closer to sea.
Cala d’Or
My first sight from the hotel caught me speechless. There was a cozy inlet between the rocks, kind of like nature providing a swimming pool to enjoy in. The sand was smooth and lined with straw huts complimenting the whole scenery. It felt like a dreamy moment coming out of a travel ad with people cliff jumping, sailing, swimming, sun-bathing and snuggling in those flamingo shaped tubes. Everything in one tiny secluded cove!
My remaining days started and ended at the beach. I didn’t feel an impulse to travel too far with some wonderful coves within my walking distance. The whole eastern coast can be imagined like a straight line with little u-shape coves of sand and crystal waters to swim, dive, jump, and relax in!
I did go on a full day boat tour which started at our hotel and hopped through Cala Figuera, Cala Esmeralda and Cala Mondrago. The last one being part of a natural reserve walled by rocks and apt for snorkelling. It also had a mix of sun and shade both from a combination of pine and oak trees. I spent an hour parked in the middle of the ocean, swimming to my heart’s content and later docking at Mondrago to energise and play in its turquoise shallow waters.
Honestly there are lots of boat tours to choose from catamarans, sailboats, fast boats, glass bottom boats etc. The experience on the sea is truly unparalleled and it gives you the flexibility to go to those hidden spots that are difficult to reach by. Here is a link that gives an idea of the options available, but its best to trust locals for best recommendations.
In these small towns as well, there is a nice culinary scene with seafood being the highlight, but also generally all cuisines and vegan options. I think the only place I had trouble finding vegetarian food was the Palma Airport. One would think airports are designed for travellers, but maybe not.
Best Time to Visit
May to June, or September is the best time to visit Mallorca. The weather is usually around 20-25 degrees, with a cool breeze flowing over the island. After October, most of the resorts shut down and Palma is the only place with some activity.